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Directory: Antiques: Decorative Art: Jewelry: English: Pre 1900: Item # 1499579

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Moylan-Smelkinson/The Spare Room
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P.O. Box 4684
Baltimore, Maryland 21212
tel. 410-435-3738

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We love the deep purple color of the amethysts that comprise this charming early Victorian 15K pearl and amethyst ring, 10 pearls surrounding a large center amethyst and 10 amethysts surrounding the pearls, set into a bifurcated shank, each side having a stylized fleur-de-lis, elaborate work on the part of the goldsmith. The stones are well matched. They are set into crimped collets, a skilled method of setting stones during the first half of the nineteenth century, a method that also required skillful handwork. The choice of the stones, amethyst and pearl, indicates this was probably given as a love ring. The smooth underside of the ring is beautifully fabricated, literally a gold cut out of a flower. This is a clue to the ring's early age; it was shortly after this period that the backs of rings were opened up. The foil backing gives the amethysts their deep purple color. One amethyst may be a replacement. We suspect that the repairer, unable to obtain 19th century foils, carved a perfect almost imperceptible circle in the back to allow in light to that one amethyst. This extremely skillful repair adds to the charm of the ring, in our opinion. Care should be taken with this ring to not allow it to get wet. This love ring which would be a lovely special anniversary gift or just a wonderful, early 19th century ring, to own.