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Directory: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Victorian: Pre 1900: Item # 1476711

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Moylan-Smelkinson/The Spare Room
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P.O. Box 4684
Baltimore, Maryland 21212
tel. 410-435-3738

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This unusual mid nineteenth century Gold and Silver Diamond Cluster ring is a variation of the classic Victorian cluster ring with a twist. The twist is that the the flower cluster is actually set in a mount of silver, with pear shaped diamonds set in 8 "leaves" of gradually increasing size, perfectly asymmetrically symmetrical. Then the silver mount is further set atop a gold mount and the band is finished in gold. Such a design could only be accomplished with rigorous and exacting hand labor as each diamond had to be carved individually since each is a different size. Our cluster ring is entirely open backed and comprised of all old mine cuts diamonds. As is typical of the era, the emphasis is on the stones (or, in this case, the stylized arrangement of stones in the shape of a flower spray) which are set a jour (without foiling) and there is nary a claw in site (the diamonds are held in on the underside of the ring so no unsightly claws are seen). The face of the ring is backed in silver to set off the cool tones of the diamonds. Then the round front face is further set atop a matching size gold base and the gold band's open work "tendrils" reach around to embrace the ring at each side. This method of setting the ring in silver but mounting it in gold was frequently employed by goldsmiths in the Georgian and Victorian eras so that the cool white tones of the diamonds are complimented by the cool tones of silver. The band would be constructed in gold which was more befitting the class and lifestyle of a recipient of a ring of this caliber. Thanks to the open back construction, our ring can be worn everyday without concern. The diamonds are solidly and rigidly set in place thanks to the immensely solid construction with the claws holding the diamonds in place underneath the face. The ring is in its entirety is solid and substantial. It is probably best suited for a medium to large hand. Our cluster ring has a center stone of approximately 2 carats. It is a size 7 and weighs 6 grams.