Catalog (382)

Sigi is short for Sigfredo Pineda, who set up his own workshop in the 1950's and is still producing modernist jewelry. He apprenticed under Castillo, not William Spratling as he was born somewhat later, in 1929. He is the sole surviving member of the Taxco silversmith artist colony startedby William Spratling in the 30's and 40's. We love the clean and modern design of these wonderful coiled cufflinks. Bullet-back closures mean these can turn 360 degrees on their hinge and fit through any...

These double sided 9 karat gold Jockey Cap cufflinks are a nod to the sporting life which became ever the rage from the turn of the century onward. Tennis, golfing, cricket, and polo were all popular weekend pursuits for the upper class lifestyle. The rage continued for sporting jewelry through the twentieth century. Our jockey cap cufflinks are a real charmer and are just what is needed to finish off the cuff ..

These 2 sided cufflinks have a landscape design on both sides and a silhouette of an elk standing in the pasture at sunset. They are stamped 830 SGR. They measure 1 inch long and 5/8 inches wide.

These beautifully crafted Egyptian revival cufflinks of sterling silver scarab beetles are the creation of Herman and Eugene Unger, German immigrants who settled in Newark, NJ and were a part of the immensely creative Art Nouveau period at the turn of the nineteenth century. Herman was the silversmith while Eugene was the engraver. Similar to the Art Nouveau period itself, their popularity was brief, not the least of which was that fact that the commercial marketplace had difficulty supporting p...

We love the pleasing niello design of the dotted squares on these substantial cufflinks. The word "niello" is a derivation of the Latin word for "niger" meaning black. Niello was an ancient of silver decorative technique revived by a German jeweler in Paris in the early part of the nineteenth century. It is done by engraving a design on the silver, and filling the recesses with an alloy of lead, copper, sulphur, and silver. The artistry of Niello-work is such that it embodies pleasing geome...

Sophisticated and smart double sided 18K French cufflinks with the "owl" hallmark. The cufflinks are marquis shaped with 4 X's, or "kisses". The construction of the cufflinks is extremely well thought out, as the "free" end of the cufflink toggles on a hinge so it can be pulled with ease through the back cuff. For the French cuff type of guy!

Poesy rings were popular in England and France during the 16th through the 17th centuries as lover's gifts. The quotations were often from courtship stories and are usually inscribed on the inner surface of the ring as is the case in this one. This ring amusingly reads "A virtuous Wife Preferreth Life". We imagine that in the 17th century, a woman was indeed better off being virtuous! We think this could make a more unusual and unique wedding band than a gold band. As all gold jewelry in England...

Dainty Georgian pansy pin set with amethysts and citrines in 18K gold. Pansy pins were often given as a gift from a loved as the sound of the word pansy was similar to the French "pense", meaning "think, remember me". Time to continue the tradition.

The rare fob pendant that is 3 pieces in 1; it includes a beautiful large niello dog clip which attaches to 3 niello links which further attaches to a 2 compartment round locket, .75 inches in diameter.. Long and elegant, the dog clip allows you to connect the pendant from any metal chain. The beauty of niello is that the colors work equally well with yellow gold, rose gold, silver, or even a niello chain. The locket has 2 compartments from which to hold photos. This niello technique derives...

A very modern looking Niello locket with a modern design on its face and back in black enamel and silver. This most unusual locket would look wonderful hanging from your silver chain. The locket has a Weiner Workstatte (English: Vienna Workshop) graphic style. It is likely this locket design was a Victorian predecessor to this most creative and short lived Austrian movement in the Fin de Siecle. As the Victorians were never to leave a surface unfinished, note the pleasing vertical stripes ad...

Fabulous Berlin iron ring decorated what appears to be agricultural tools, including a scythe. The band has a floral motif. It is possible the ring was owned by a landowner farmer. Popular in the early 1800's, during the Napoleonic war German women gave their precious jewelry for the war effort and it was replaced with Berlin iron jewelry some with the inscription "Ich gab gelt für eisen", I gave gold for iron. The iron jewelry was made by the Royal Berlin Factory, which produced iron for i...

Wonderful 15ct double sided Victorian locket ready for your favorite photograph! This lovely chased gold locket can be worn in 2 ways, with the belt buckle motif on the one side, or the old cut diamond on the other. Both sides are beautifully chased. The buckle and buckle motif was popularized by Queen Victoria, and the belt and buckle motif represented the Order of the Garter. The Order features the garter, which is imbued with the symbol of protection, fidelity, and loyalty. Gold chain not inc...

Stickpins, also known as tie pins, have been collected since the 18th century when neckwear for men came into fashion. They were made in all manner of styles well into the 20th century, with no limits to the imagination as the pursuit of novelty came into full swing. The sun moon and stars motif represents the flow of time as our world cycles through from day to night. We love the ethereal beauty of this stick pin with its combination of tiny pearls and turquoise, which we think helps to bring a...

Delightful Victorian deep blue Vauxhall glass bug will be wonderful to wear for dress up or casual events. Vauxhall mirrored glass jewelry was made at the Vauxhall Glassworks in the outskirts of London, as a way of using their extra shards of mirror glass. It was sold to courting couples at the Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens, and became immensely popular for its intense colors and the exceptional quality of the glass. During the Darwin period, any type of insect was popular, including bees, bugs, and...

Lovely gray lava beads which were inspired by the ruins of Pompeii in Italy. Lava jewelry was actually made from the lava of Mt. Vesuvius as souvenir jewelry fro travelers on the Grand Tour. Notice how the beads are properly graduated, as one would only see on early jewelry made before mass production. The smallest beads at the clasp gradually getting larger until the central bead, which is appropriately the largest and the place where the eye is drawn to.

Antique 9K gold Victorian "message" ring, "Mizpah, symbolizing a bond between two people, comes from a bible quote in the book of Genesis, "The Lord watch between thee and me, when we are absent one from another". Mizpah is the Hebrew word for "Watchtower", a pillar of stones which symbolized the covenant between Jacob and Laban. Mizpah rings were often exchanged between two people in the hope of protecting the two during a period of separation, often by war.

C.1860 18ct Pietra-Dura Flower Brooch Antique 18K Gold Pietra Dura Brooch, Italy C.1875. Oval shape brooch with fine pietra dura floral green, robins egg blue inlay colors,and white and gold flowers as accents. 18K surround gold mount with 8 gold X's soldered symmetrically around the gold border.

We love this pale pink coral carving of a classical maiden with the depiction of a maenad (maenads were female followers of the God Bacchus, Roman mythological god of wine) carved in 14K along the ring's shoulder and on the coral head of the ring. The gold shoulder carvings add to the allure. Coral has the hardness of agate but can be carved to a level of fine detail and precision. The hallmark "14" indicate this ring is likely German/Austrian, which used the 14 designation for karat, as opposed...

Fantastic Whitby jet earrings in the form of concentric circles, a classic geometric shape that we love. The material is made of Whitby Jet, a form of fossilized coal that came from the coal mines of Whitby England in the 18th and 19th centuries. Jet was especially popular during Victorian times because it was acceptable as a form of mourning jewelry. Jet is particularly appealing as a material for crafting jewelry because the material is lightweight and can be carved and polished to a beautiful...

English Victorian buckle ring in 9K and a sterling silver buckle, c1890. The contrast of the two metals is sophisticated and smart looking. The 9K band has an interesting texture, perhaps imitating shagreen. Buckle imagery was used in the Victorian and Edwardian eras to symbolize fidelity and eternal love.Suitable for a man or woman. The ring is a size 11 3/4.

Antique 18K and diamond-studded lover's knot ring with nice clear hallmarks for Chester, 1909. The knot motif is a Victorian symbol of love. It continued in popularity through WWI. Our knot ring has three old mine cut diamonds embedded securely within incised stars which are further placed in gold squares. The figural knot can be seen on the underside of the ring and is every bit as beautiful as the front. This ring is a size 6 3/4.

HM 1905 18K Diamond Knot Ring. Antique 18K and diamond-studded lover's knot ring hallmarked for Birmingham, 1905. Lover's knots were a Victorian motif that continued in popularity through WWI. Our lover's knot ring has three old mine cut diamonds embedded securely within incised stars set in gold squares. The figural knot can be seen on the underside of the ring and is as beautiful as the front. The ring can be sized and is a US size 9.

Early C1860 Victorian Marquise shaped ring of 15K gold, silver, enamel and diamonds set in a floral and leaf design. Wow! how fantastic! The stylized leaf form with young diamond buds harkens to the expression “nipped in the bud”, when mourning one who dies too young. The ring is a size 5.5 and can be resized to fit.

Rare Georgian "Dear-Regard" ring set in 15K gold. The center motif of a flower is set with a "R"uby, "E"merald, "G"arnet, "A"methyst", "R"uby, and "D"iamond, the first letters of the stones spelling "Regard". The groups of stones on the cusps of the band are set with a "D"iamond, "E"merald, "Amethyst", and "R"uby, the first letters of the stones spelling "Dear". Historically the rings given as a token of love were either "Dearest" or "Regard". This ring is a combination of both sentiments.

Georgian 18K gold cannetille work ring set with a carved turquoise in the shape of a pair of clasped hands, a symbol of friendship. On either side there are set an opal and a garnet. This is truly an unusual and rare ring. It is a size 7 and measures a bit over 1/4" at its widest.

Exquisite Georgian verre églomisé, or gilded glass, portrait ring surrounded by seed pearls. Verre églomisé is a French term meaning gilded glass and is a decorative technique in which the back side of glass is gilded with gold leaf. The gilding may also be combined with reverse painting on glass as in this case. This ring has very large verre églomisé panel with a black silhouette of a peasant girl against a gilded background. The back of the glass panel is curved for comfort when ...

Bold pave set chrysoberyl ring in 18K gold. The stones came from Portuguese mines in Brazil. Fabulous jewelry was made from the various gemstones exported from these mines until the French invasion of Portugal in 1809. The ring is size 7 1/4 and can be sized up or down.

Eye catching 15K gold and amethyst ring surrounded by pave set chrysoberyls from Portuguese mines in Brazil. Fabulous jewelry was made from the various gemstones exported from these mines until the French invasion of Portugal in 1809. The ring is size 8 1/4 and can be sized to fit.

Lovely Georgian five stone paste ring set in 15K gold and silver. The center stone is set in an ornate basket setting. This rare ring is great to wear alone or stacked with other rings. The ring is a size 9.

Georgian ring of green paste in a basket setting flanked by two clear pastes on each side. Paste is colored or clear glass, often lead or flint, cut in the same fashion as gemstones and used as a substitute especially while traveling. Antique paste jewelry was valued on its own merits and not as an imitation of another piece of jewelry. This Georgian 15K gold, green paste ring is a size 7 1/2 and can be sized. It measures 1/4" at its widest.

Georgian almandine garnet ring circa 1770, in an 18K gold basket setting flanked by two cushion cut diamonds. Almandine garnets are purply red and were flat cut as seen here. This lovely early ring is a size 6 1/4 and the stone measures 5/8" wide by 1/4" high

This C1870 Victorian necklace features 9K hand crafted solid gold beads strung on a gold chain. It is the perfect piece for layering with an antique chain, or layering with another beaded chain as shown in our photos. (Other beaded chain seen in photo is also available on 1St dibs as a 18K gold bead necklace). The necklace is 16 inches long and weighs 24 grams.

Our circa 1860 Victorian collar of graduated 18K yellow gold hand crafted solid gold beads strung on a gold chain. It is the perfect piece for layering with an antique chain or with another beaded chain as shown in our photos. (Other beaded chain seen in photo is in 9K and also available on 1st dibs under "9K Gold Victorian Beaded Collar w Barrel Clasp"). The collar has its original clasp and a safety chain. Note that the beads are graduated in size, an indication that they were each crafted in...

Georgian rose diamond cluster ring set in silver with an 18K gold embossed band. Rings of this period are very scarce and hard to find in such wonderful condition. This is a real collector's piece. The ring is size 6 and can be sized to fit.

Georgian diamond ring in a snowflake motif set in silver with an 18K band will sparkle in sunlight and candlelight. Notice the gorgeous back, a work of art in and of itself. The ring back is cut down so that the metal is cut to fit the stones and gives a more refined appearance to the ring. The ring is size 6 1/2 and can be sized to fit.

Dramatic Georgian rose diamond cluster ring set in silver with an 18K gold band. The center stone is a large Dutch crown rose diamond. The cluster ring head is almost .75 inches in diameter, large and imposing. The ring is size 6 1/4 and can be sized to fit. This is a wonderful Georgian diamond ring and these are rare to find today.

This attractive antique full length 18K watch chain has alternating carved ornamental solid gold by-pyramid link (what we call a "fancy" link) which connects to a pair of linked rings, which connects to simple solid gold by-pyramid link. The C1880 chain measures 59 inches long. It can be worn in various lengths, doubled or tripled, with a locket or pendant, or just as is, shown in the images below. A screwed in bolt clip allows you to add a pendant, if desired. The chain weighs 35 grams and feel...

Delicate and ephemeral Victorian necklace woven from gold to create a light transparent woven gold necklace. Such necklaces often took the goldsmith weeks to make, and were entirely crafted by hand. The necklace is lightweight around the neck and literally weightless and is 16.5 inches long.

This intricately woven gold necklace with enameled serpent biting its tail, known as an ouroboros, is classically Georgian and circa 1790. Woven gold necklaces like this one took weeks to make and created enormous precision and painstaking detail. Our ouroboros snake necklace, with blue and green enameling and gold paint to denote the snake's scales and amethyst paste eyes, is a treasure to behold. It is quite a miracle that this necklace has survived over 200 years.

Our exceptional 18K Georgian woven mesh featherlight necklace is both light in color and weightless about the neck. Woven mesh chains like this one are rarely found, as their delicacy makes them quite fragile and few have survived over the years. We have found one which has weathered the passage of time beautifully and likely sat in someone's jewelry drawer untouched for many generations. Notice the stamped stars and circles that are impressed on the decorative gold barrel clasp and its adjoinin...

C1890 60 inch long original full length French watch chain features lovely handcrafted filigree elements with its traditional links and filigree circles within the links. The chain can be worn doubled or tripled and with a pendant attached. An 18K French chain is a must for every woman's jewelry wardrobe! The hallmarks consist of a French eagle head (18K), bigorne marks, and a goldsmith's mark. The hallmarks are located on the ring that attaches to the clasp. The chain weighs 50 grams.

A lovely pair of white paste earrings closed back set in silver gilt. Approximately 18 MM or .7 inches in width, these well scaled earrings can be dressed up or down. Made of "paste", a special glass and lead formula originating from George Ravenscroft, a London glassmaker, during the 17th century and perfected by a French jeweler Georges Strass in the 18th century. Each "paste" was handcarved to fit the setting. Paste has become very collectible and desirable and can no longer be made today. T...

Our Deco 15K emerald eternity band is crafted with an engraved 15K white gold band with decorative flourishes along the platinum edge. It features 24 clear green emeralds with a carat weight of approx. 1.15 carats. The inside of the band has squares providing a window into the green emeralds. Eternity bands symbolize everlasting love and are given on special occasions to commemorate an anniversary, a wedding, the birth of a first child, or as a holiday gift. The band measures US 3 ½ and is NOT ...

Our Deco era sapphire eternity band is crafted of polished 15K white gold. The ring features 25 clear blue sapphires and approximately 1.15 carats. The inside band provides a window into the sapphires. Eternity bands symbolize everlasting love and are given on special occasions to commemorate an anniversary, a wedding, the birth of a first child, or as a holiday gift. The band measures between US 7 and is NOT size-able. It measures an unusually wide 1/8 of an inch and is heavy for an eternity...

Our early Victorian 15K turquoise and pearl baby ring may be collected in honor of a new baby, worn around the knuckle, or clipped to a split ring and worn around a favorite chain, with or without other baby rings. Our ring has a center turquoise flanked by a pearl on each side. The open gold band is handcrafted with gold whorls and scrolls which are punctuated with little gold balls. Additional gold balls are placed along the shank. The top and bottom gold bands are reeded, another exceptional...

We love baby rings, worn around the knuckle or worn clipped to a large split ring and worn around a chain, or simply collected in honor of a new baby. Our Victorian baby ring has rose diamonds encased in gold, spaced evenly around the band. The band has a royal blue enamel border on both top and bottom of the band. The blue enamel is itself accented by a slender border of gold. The combination of the rose diamonds set in gold with the enamel blue detail make this an exceptional baby ring. The o...

The 1920's and 30's was the age of the cocktail party, and the jewelry was characterized by vivid colors and sparkling diamonds. Cuban influences helped guide art deco design toward strong rectilinear geometry. This diamond ring is classic art deco. It is almost a full inch long and .5 inches deep at its widest. The platinum band has engraving.

Amazing "Queen Anne" amethyst paste earrings set in gilt metal. This style of jewelry has been historically misnamed for Queen Anne, who reigned from 1695 to 1714, as so called Queen Anne jewelry dates to the mid 18th century. The vivid purple paste stones used are faceted as rose cuts. The earrings have back to front fittings and fit close to the earlobe. There is a matching necklace sold separately.

Our muff chain is known as "pinchbeck" and has a wonderful hand clasp with a diminutive emerald paste ring on the hand and a charming carved ruffled sleeve at the end of the hand clasp. We love “jewelry wearing jewelry” and the hand clasp with its fingernails and green paste ring can only be described as quintessentially Georgian. The links of the chain are embossed with textural dots. While our Georgian pinchbeck long chain was used in its day to hold one's muff, today one wears it for ...

Sweet Victorian 5 stone diamond ring, hallmarked Birmingham for the year 1864 and crafted of 18K gold, has 2 "S" shaped scrolls ending in a final flourish on both sides of the band. The slim profile of the ring makes it ideal for stacking. The ring is open backed allowing the light through and enhancing the reflection of the cushion cut diamonds. The ring is a size 6.5, as shown.

Ring of diamonds and platinum, our band has 5 cushion cut diamond atop a band incised with scrolls and "V" flourishes. The ring has hallmarks for platinum and 18K as well as a maker's mark WG&S, William Greenwood and Sons. If you are looking for a diamond ring for a small finger size, this is the ring for you. US/Can. size 3 3/4.

We love these late Victorian 2 color gold coral earrings and the contrast between the yellow gold and rose gold of the three leaf arrangement. Each leaf is topped with a single coral rose. The leaf form is espaliered to a 15K textured gold "frame". The earrings are 1.5 inches long and hang from shepherd's hooks. Please be sure and ask us about the matching brooch to these earrings.

15K Victorian chain with a link design consisting of two "paperclips" joined together at a perfect 90 degree angle, leading to a lovely unusual lovers knot link where the lover's knot is wrapped in a braided pattern several times about a simple oval link (see close ups). Both the paper clip and the lover's knot links are Victorian motifs used to convey love and devotion. The chain is substantial at 36.3 grams. and at 51 inches can be worn doubled or tripled. There is a nicely scaled dog clip an...

Lovely early Victorian sterling silver paste pendant with a border of paste stones and royal blue enamel, most likely was a pendant given as a gift to a loved one. The beautiful blue color represented innocence and virtue and was probably given to a young woman by her suitor. Women adored their paste jewelry as much as their diamonds, so the use of paste stones indicates this was likely owned by a member of the "upper crust". The pendant is approximately 1 1/4 inches.

Charming Victorian turquoise drop earrings set in silver, with daisy form tops and bow bottoms, circa 1880. The earrings are attached to gold shepherds hooks and are 1.4 inches long. Turquoise were considered sentimental love jewelry and the Victorians, ever the romantics, associated turquoise with happiness in life.

18K pendant of rock crystal with a reverse intaglio of the head of an adorable Pekingese, with an inscription on the reverse side, Ed. Van den Hove & Fils, Bruxelles, C. 1880. This pendant is stylistically characteristic of the work of the Pradier family, whose speciality was painting miniature works of domestic animals. These miniature works of art were widely popular in the United States as well as on the Continent. They are often erroneously referred to as Essex Crystals.

Our marquis shaped 18K ring, carved in the shape of the pointed oval and emblematic of the gothic arch, has twelve old-cut rubies and a central cabochon opal accented with rose diamonds. The ring is a "marquis within a marquis" in the way the rubies form the outside border of another border of gold trim, which forms a marquis shape that encloses the cabochon opal and accent diamonds. The pointed oval suggests that this ring was styled in the manner of the gothic revival. The gold band is unus...

Unusual lightweight original watch chain of made of gunmetal, a material used to make decorative chains, purses, brooches, buckles and other items during the Victorian era. Gunmetal is an alloy of copper and tin. Our chain has a lovely complex knot link that is shown closeup in the images. It is hard to imagine the time it took to construct such a chain by hand, and a similar link could not be made today. Gunmetal watch chains were both decorative and functional. People would hang their key...

Unusual lightweight original watch chain of made of gunmetal, an alloy of copper and tin that was used to make decorative chains, purses, brooches, buckles and other items during the Victorian era. Our chain has alternating links and balls throughout and the pattern is consistent and uninterrupted (this is something we look for and is important because it shows the chain is in its original condition with no links removed). Besides being decorative, such watch chains were useful; people would ha...

Our C1890 15K link original watch chain has 19 natural pearls interspersed symmetrically along our exceptionally long chain at 67", with 18 pearls arranged around the chain in perfect symmetry and the 19th single pearl arranged symmetrical to the clasp. The chain feels incredibly light and silky smooth about the neck, almost weightless. It is so long it can be worn tripled without even removing it from your neck, simply fold it over another time around your head and it is tripled. The pearls giv...